As it turns out, the later (black) Jupiters had a “small” modification so they wouldn’t be so sensitive. Thanks to reader Sal for pointing this out. Here’s the deal. Ten-Tec now offers a sound card interface similar in concept to the SignaLink USB, although without the knobs and adjustments. It’s called the “MODEL 712 – USB SOUNDCARD DIGITAL MODE ADAPTER CABLE.” But…there’s a warning that comes with the 712:
“NOTE ON USE WITH JUPITER HF TRANSCEIVER
“The earlier version of the Jupiter with the gray case and green screen is not usable with the 712 as a plug-and-play device. The later black case/blue screen Jupiter can be used as-is with 712. There is too much gain internal to the transceiver on the line input which makes use of the 712 problematic with the earlier Jupiter. There is a small hardware modification to the earlier Jupiter which will allow use of the 712 as a plug-and-play device; contact TenTec Service at (865) 428-0364 or firstname.lastname@example.org for information.”
I contacted Ten-Tec to inquire as to the “small hardware modification.” Garry Green, N4CJX, at Ten-Tec replied with a single JPEG image. I zero in on the relevant part in the following photo.
I wouldn’t exactly call this single photo a complete set of instructions for making the modification, so I investigated further prior to opening up my Jupiter. I dug into the instruction manual, which comes with extensive parts-layout drawings, schematics, and bills of materials. Here’s a close-up of Figure 4-15 from the original instruction manual, which is the parts layout diagram for the Digital Signal Processing (DSP) printed circuit board (PCB). Note that this is a high-res scan.
As it turns out, the part is R52 on the DSP PCB. Okay, let’s find out what R52 is. Here’s a closeup from Figure 4-11, the audio input/output portion of the DSP PCB.
All right, we’re swapping out a 330K-ohm resistor with one that’s 33K-ohm, a factor of ten between the two. Fair enough. But, actual inspection of the circuit board reveals this:
Uh…yes, it’s a “small modification.” Very small. I put a dime in the photo so you can see just how small it is. Compare the size of R52 (orange arrow) with the “N” in “One Dime.” Also note that the integrated circuit just to the right of the part is actually a surface-mount device, itself very small.
So, I’d say the modification is “too small.” I’d need a microscope to fix this! Frankly, I don’t think John Q. Ham can attempt this without some seriously uncommon equipment. I certainly can’t! So…I guess my gray-box Jupiter will stay unmodified, and I’ll live with the quite-sufficient work-around I made to the SignaLink USB. It was a lovely journey into the depths of my Jupiter, but it has all the attributes of “look but don’t touch!”
P.S. Opening the Jupiter requires dealing with some screws with a weird star pattern that won’t accept a traditional screwdriver. I didn’t have the right tool, but found that a 5/64-th hex key (Allen) wrench, if used gently, works.
You mentioned the 10:1 voltage divider. Tell me more as to what you did? My green screen Jupiter is super sensitive. I have wondered how to stretch the adjustment just a bit. Like many more average HAMS I am not going to fool with something that my 65 year old eyes are going to have trouble seeing… LOL
Hi Skips, I would love to do as you suggest, which would most certainly work. However, take a look at the photo. The resistor in question is a surface-mount device that is smaller than the N in ONE DIME. Further, it’s down on the board next to some tall capacitors. I don’t have the skill or tools to tack a 33K resistor across the 330K resistor—the area is simply too hard to get at.
Why one wouldn’t just solder the 33K resistor on top of, and in parallel with, the 330K is beyond me. The total resistance will be within 10% of a 33K resistor. DONE faster, safer, AND easier.
Armol, wow, you must have the hands of a brain surgeon! Not only is the surface-mounted resistor no larger than the N on a dime, but it’s buried near some rather large components on the board. Tackling this job is way beyond my skill level!
That is easy, with a small tip iron and some wick and a small hook to pull the resistor of on one end at at time when you have wicked the solder off the connections. Place the new one in place and hold with a pointed soldering aid tool and put a little solder on each end of the resistor. Just as it starts to flow pull the iron away..DONE